Surfing is not just standing on a board on water. There is a part of surfing that goes deep; deep within your mind, your body, and your soul. Riding a wave sparks a feeling of connection, a moment of pure bliss and excitement. It’s hard to explain, but I will try:
Sometimes, life is hard. Life can have days that you truly wish you could either start over, or simply erase. Work, family, friends, money, happiness, all are taking over your mind. You know that surfing will help, but, even that seems too hard. You know you have to heal, you know you have to break out of the shackles of the daily grind and let the waves wash the stress out of you. So, you grab your wetsuit, board, and keys.
Before you even stop the car, you can smell the salty air. The crashing of the waves reassures you that you are in the right place. It’s OK; it’s time to get into the water. There are other surfers at the beach, all ages, shapes, sizes, colours, backgrounds and faiths, and all with their own story. Everyone is there to feel that moment.
You are reminded of how alive you are when your toes first hit the cold water, and you splash your face with more. Cold; but then warm. Your heart becomes warm as you feel the waves pushing you.
Paddle. Paddle. Paddle.
Paddle into the wave, duck under it, let the energy pass over your back. Don’t fight it, work with it. Let the spray whisper to you as you surface through the other side. You’re there; out the back.
With the rise and fall of the ocean, you are reminded to go with the ebb and flow of life. Fighting against life will only make it harder. You have to find a way to work with what you have, and grow stronger.
Picking your waves wisely follows. You see the horizon rise higher and higher and you are assessing which ones to chase, and which ones to let go.
The perfect one starts to roll toward you and you feel the electricity charging around you. It’s like your body plugs itself into the water for power.
Turn around. Look back. Look forward.
Paddle. Paddle. Paddle. Push.
Thump, your feet hit the fibreglass.
From the moment that the water touches your toes, you start something on a deeper level. A storm that brewed and exploded miles and miles away, has pulsed it way through the water at speed to reach you, so you can ride. A ripple in the ocean becomes your moment.
The energy of the long forgotten storm is now pushing you forward. Your mind clears. The sounds of the curling water beneath your board are all you hear. The thoughts of moving forward while the depth of the ocean holds you are all that occupy your mind. The adrenaline from the energy of the waves, burst through your body and your soul.
For that moment, the hard days, the stress, can be put aside. All that matters is flying on the water; being one with something greater than yourself.
That’s the deeper connection of surfing.