You don’t have to be religious to have a spiritual moment in surfing. In fact, surfing is thought to be a religion by some. Surfing is very much a personal sport, a journey if you will.
You can surf with others, but ultimately, surfing is between you and Mother Nature. It’s the moment when you are in front of the wave, and you are embraced by the water. The pure energy in the waves, that could have travelled hundreds or thousand of kms, is propelling you forward; you are one with your environment.
The key to surfing enlightenment is to ‘go with the flow’. It’s not just a cliché, it’s a truth. If you resist the waves, you resist life and the opportunities that it gives you. If you can acknowledge your fears and face them, you can take the waves on, and in return, you will be able to tackle other challenges life throws at you.
You see, riding a wave, either on a surfboard, a bodyboard, a sup or just using your own body, changes you. It can change you for life and have you addicted to the adrenaline filled rush of riding waves, or it can just permanently etch a happy memory in your mind. Either way, it is a spiritual practice, meaning you are faced with your own personal meaning in life. I don’t know how it happens, it just happens.
When you are surfing, you are in the water, the ocean, the most beautiful, important, and powerful force on our planet. You are moving with the ocean, letting it cleanse and empower you. The colours of the water heal, the salty air cleanses, and the sandy earth beneath your feet ground you.
If surfing doesn’t change you, then you need to try it again. Don’t resist it, it could be the one thing that you are searching for, just as a seasoned surfer searches for the perfect wave…but that’s another story.